STIMUCAP: Innovation on the hair

Introduction

The current cosmetics trend in the Hair Care field is more and more oriented toward the use of natural specialties able to give functional and beauty effects, without affecting and stressing the scalp and shaft health status by weighing them down, as it might happen with several synthetic and silicon based ingredients.

Following an overview of a specialty compliant to such trends, to use in the different steps of the hair beauty routine, focusing on the anti-hair loss, frequent rinse-off and scalp strengthening treatments.

Stimucap: a novel approach for anti-hair loss

The approach in the anti-hair loss field has been focused for ages on the pharmacological inhibition of the activity of the enzyme 5 Alfa-Reductase, key protein involved in the hair loss process.

Cosmetics wise, the traditional strategy was focused on vasodilatation mechanisms induced on the hair scalp target by substances used in the pharmaceutic field, and followingly re-adapted for the cosmetics industry.

Stimucap works through specific mechanisms aimed to improve the physiological status of the hair follicle, through the combined use of a couple of macromolecules, the CLA-Glutathione and the Sodium DNA, followingly described:

Potassium Glutathione Isomerized Linoleate (CLA-Glutathione)

This compound gives an innovative synergistic action in counteracting the miniaturization of the hair follicle. CLA (conjugated linoleic acid) is a fatty acid with a flexible and fluid structure, functionalized with Glutathione (fig.1).

fig.1

CLA is obtained from vegetable source and is found in many natural sources: clinical evidence assigns CLA a key role in lipid transport into the blood stream. Recent studies¹ showed that CLA can induce through its hairpin configuration the expression of the sub-catalytic unit of the enzyme γ-glutamyl-cysteine-ligase, involved in the GSH synthesis; thus, it increases inside the cell leads to augmented GSH content, more than reported by arachidonic acid, without secondary induction of ROS. CLA is known to be the only polyunsaturated fatty acid capable of inducing Glutathione synthesis without modifying the oxidative equilibrium inside the cells.

Glutathione (GSH) is an oligopeptide formed by glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine; in biological terms it performs a cell protective activity in biological tissues through its antioxidant action and as a combination agent for metabolites to be disposed of by the organism; it works along with endogenous glutathione peroxidase to re-establish redox mechanisms, it neutralizes oxygenated radicals that have disruptive effects on proteins, enzymes and cellular DNA and is known as the most effective anti-oxidant substance that human body can synthesize.

Technological Innovative Aspects

The link between GSH and CLA allows the stabilization of the GSH highly reactive thiol unity (responsible of its known anti-oxidant action) through CLA steric hindrance around the thiol functional moiety; in absorption terms, GSH itself shows a poor diffusion through biological membranes, because of its polar and hydro-soluble nature: CLA lipophilicity improves the delivery in the follicle area of the GSH, optimizing its in situ above described action, that protects the bulb against free radicals (severe factor of risk of the hair involution process).

Functional Innovative Aspects

CLA is a precursor of an antagonist of the arachidonic acid (fatty acid occurring in biological cells membranes and the most abundant precursor of eicosanoids like prostaglandins, tromboxanes and leucotriens); after its in vivo conversion in arachidonic acid antagonist, and in presence of GSH as biological catalyst,

CLA inhibits the formation of Prostaglandin E2, anti-inflammatory mediator.

The described mechanism reduces the inflammation on the hair scalp, and, along with the maximized free radical inactivation operated by the GSH, gives a synergism that protects the hair follicle against its progressive miniaturization that leads to the formation of smaller and thinner hair.

Therefore, CLA and Glutathione mutually improve their peculiar effects, absorption and bio-availability to mantain the physiological condition of the hair, and keep its homeostasis, counteracting the fibrosis of the connective tissue. The described biological synergism enables to improve the conditions of the hair follicle and the area surrounding it.

Sodium DNA

Macromolecule obtained through bio-technology, based on denatured, purified, depolymerized and neutralized polydeoxyribonucleotides fragments. This specialty works as a donor of nucleotides for stressed cells, activating several biochemical processes aimed to rebalance alterations of their metabolism. This process takes place during, sun exposure, aging process, stress, excessive free radical production, as it happens in the scalp of individuals suffering alopecia. In the case of the application on the hair scalp, the activity of these fragments is linked to a regenerating action over the bulb germ cells, whose undifferentiated nature makes them assimilable to the stem cells in terms of biological behavior.

Sodium DNA was proven to increase in vitro the proliferation of stem cells; furthermore, its direct application on the scalp gave interesting results in hair regrowth increase and hair thickness increase.

Comparison Test: CLA-GSH/DNA vs Benchmark Control

The anti-hair loss study was performed on 30 volunteers, men and women aged between 25-55, affected by alopecia and telogenum effluvium: II-III stage of the Hamilton scale for men, and I-II stage of the Ludwig scale for women. 15 random volunteers applied the formula with Minoxidil once daily for 3 months, while the remaining 15 used the formula with CLA-GSH clash and DNA.

At the beginning of the study, and after 1,2 and 3 months several evaluations were carried out, after which all data were statistically compared. The treatment with DNA and CLA Glutathione (at 3%), was compared to a 2% lotion with Minoxidil.

Pull Test: the hair traction resistance was determined (graph). A standard force was applied to hair locks at 3 different sites on the scalp. The resistance was evaluated by a semiquantitative scale, calibrated as follows: 0= >6 hair units removed, 1= 6÷4 hair units removed, 2= 3÷1 units, 3=0 units.  CLA-GSH and DNA gave better results than the benchmark control, accomplishing a statistically significant +40% increased resistance, against the +17% given by the control. 

Dermatological evaluation: a dermatological evaluation was conducted for the overall tolerability (table) of the product evaluated on the following scale: 0=low, 1=moderate, 2=average, 3=good, 4=very good. The possible onset and intensity of local adverse reactions (such as seborrhea or dandruff formation) were analyzed by using a nano-parametric scale from 0 to 3. No adverse reactions were found in any of the treatments carried, highlighting a good overall tolerability and absence of local effects like seborrhea, itching or dandruff onset. 

Subjective evaluation, on a monthly base, the volunteers expressed through a questionnaire their opinion on efficacy, tolerability, and treatment pleasantness.  The treatment with CLA-GSH and DNA gave significant tolerability perception after 2 and 3 months of treatment, whereas the control gave no significant result.

Wash Test: based on the hair lost count after standard washing (graph. 3). The results obtained suggest a parallel result for both the tested lotions, whose treatment response was even, in terms of hair loss reduction.

Conclusion

The CLA-GSH and DNA combination represents a new candidate to be used in anti-hair loss treatments based on hydro-alcoholic lotions as well as leave on conditioners and shampoos (in this case, with the claim of “hair strengthening”, as supported by specific tests available under request), representing an innovative option to the main benchmark in the cosmetics market.